How Josephine Baker Shaped the Spectacle of Black Elegance on Fashion's Biggest Night

The Essence of Dandyism

What do a well-tailored suit, walking stick, and top hat have in common? What about pearls, a well-placed brooch, a pocket watch, a parasol, and a pair of lace gloves?

Answer: They are all elements of a dandy.

This year, the Met Gala’s theme was “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style”, with a focus on Black dandyism. While everyone has an opinion on who “understood the assignment,” forming a well-informed view requires an understanding of the concept’s rich history.

The Origins and Evolution of the Dandy

Dandyism is a cultural and stylistic phenomenon rooted in 18th- and 19th-century Europe, particularly in England and France. Among marginalized groups, it became a tool to assert visibility, pride, and resistance through fashion.

The spirit of the dandy lives on in:

   •   Zoot suits, African prints, and classic pinstripes

   •   Iconic figures like Josephine Baker, Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway, and James Baldwin, who all recognized fashion as a form of power and identity.

   •   Even fictional portrayals, such as Jamie Foxx’s character in Django, reflect the symbolic liberation that comes with style—donning a velvet jacket and dressing like a free man.

Historical Influences

   •   Julius Soubise: A formerly enslaved man in 18th-century England known for his flamboyant dress and ties to British aristocracy.

   •   The Harlem Renaissance: Figures like Duke Ellington and Langston Hughes embraced elegant tailoring, blending European fashion with Black cultural expression.

   •   Zoot Suiters (1940s): Their exaggerated silhouettes symbolized resistance and cultural pride among Black and Latino youth.

Josephine Baker: The Original Black Female Dandy

Josephine Baker embodied the essence of the Black female dandy, both on and off stage. Known for her flamboyant performance costumes, she also embraced sleek, modern, gender-defying fashion in her personal life.

She was:

   •   A superstar who dazzled French audiences

   •   A political force who supported the French Resistance and the U.S. civil rights movement

   •   An inspiration to modern-day Black dandies like Janelle Monáe and Tracee Ellis Ross who represent the ongoing tradition of stylish resistance

Their fashion isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s about power, presence, and reclaiming visibility in elite spaces.

A Tribute to André Leon Talley

Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour dedicated this year’s gala theme to her late friend, André Leon Talley—a towering figure in fashion who broke barriers as the first Black creative director at Vogue in 1988. A modern-day dandy himself, Talley epitomized style, elegance, and unapologetic Black excellence.

Notably:

   •   This was only the second Met Gala to focus on menswear

   •   It was the first time the Black man was the central theme

Josephine Baker’s Influence on the 2025 Met Gala

Countless blogs and articles have analyzed this year’s red carpet looks, but our lens—as curators of Josephine Baker’s style and influence—offers a fresh perspective.

Baker was the most-cited inspiration by celebrities. Even when not mentioned by name, her influence was evident:

   •   Pin curls on Gigi Hadid

   •   Finger waves on Serena Williams and others (aka the famous “S” curl)

   •   Alicia Keys wore a beaded headpiece reminiscent of Baker

   •   Megan Thee Stallion embraced a Josephine-inspired ponytail and

silhouette, proving she too understood the assignment

Josephine’s legacy lives on through the details: tailoring, fit, and elegance rooted in Black dandyism.

Female Celebrities Channeling Josephine Baker

Celebrity/ Designer/Josephine Baker Influence:

Dua Lipa Chanel Hairstyle inspired by JB

Gigi Hadid Miu Miu JB pin curls

FKA Twigs Wales Bonner JB Clothing Style

Tracee EllisRoss Marc Jacobs Clthing Style referenced JB

Megan Thee Stallion Michael Kors JB Clothing and Hairstyle

Halle Bailey — Credits JB as a trailblazings inspirationn

Quinta Brunson — Hairstyle

Serena Williams — Hairstyle JB finger waves

The Men: Modern-Day Dandies

This year’s co-chairs brought dandyism to life on the Met steps:

Pharrell Williams

   •   Co-chair and Louis Vuitton Menswear Creative Director

   •   Wore a bespoke pearl pinstripe blazer (100,000 pearls; 980 hours to craft)

Colman Domingo

   •   Stunned in custom Valentino by Alessandro Michele

   •   Styled by Wayman + Micah

Lewis Hamilton

   •   Wore an ivory suit with high-waisted tuxedo-striped trousers

   •   Featured an embroidered sash with cowrie shells and mother-of-pearl, honoring African heritage

A$AP Rocky

   •   Wore a custom piece by AWGE and stylist Matthew Henson

   •   Paid tribute to Harlem fashion, including iconic Marmot jackets

An Historic Night

The 2025 Met Gala made history by raising a record-breaking $31 million for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute—the highest total in the event’s 77-year history.